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(ModeL) 6 Sheets-Sheet 1.

J. BOWLING 8v J. GONNOLLY.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 299,118. Patented May 27, 1834.

6 l Y um Om NG NA OM OG N ...1 JW uws Gm 0 ma LN W0 T 0m DB J PatentedMay 27, 1884.

(Mqdel.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 3.

J. DQWLING 8E J1 001111011111u BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 299,118.Patented May 27, 1884.

WITNESS 8 lVVE/VTOH kfm gli@ A Homey (Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 4.

J. BOWLING 8v J. CONNOLLY.

1 BUTTON HOLE SBWINGMAGHINE.

No. 299,118. Patented Mey 27, 1884.

12e-wu om 6 Sheets-Sheet 5.

(Mdel.)

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(Model.) i 6 Sheets-Sheet 6.

J. BOWLING 1n J. GONNOLLY.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 299,118. Patented May 27, 1884.

Darren drains Farrar Ormea.

JAMES DOWLING AND JOI-IN CONNOLLY, OF LONDON, ENGLAND.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters PatentNo. 299,118, dated May 27, 1884. Application filed July 27,1881.(Model.) Patented in France November 10, 1882,.No. l5:2,l74.

.To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, .Lines DowLrNe and JOHN CoNNoLLY, subjects of HerMajesty the Queen of Great Britain, both residing at London, England,have invented certain new and and to theletters or figures of referencemarked thercon,which form a part of this specification.

This invention relates to machines for sewing button-holes. Its chiefobj ect is to provide such machines with convenient, cheap, and reliableautomatic feeding mechanism to obviate the inconvenience of turning,moving, and guiding the fabric by hand while the buttonholes are inprocess of being sewed. This we accomplish by the peculiar' constructionand combination of parts hereinafter described.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l represents a plan view of ourimproved buttonhole sewing-machine. Fig. 2 represents a front elevationof the same. Fig. 3 represents a rear elevation of the same. Fig. Irepresents a bottom view of the same. ffl Figo represents a detail viewofthe cam, degat/heel, and proximate devices which rotate, step by step,the shaft whereby the longitudinal feed is effected, and of the screwwhich regulates the length of the button-holes. Fig. 6 represents atransverse vertical section through the feeding devices. Fig. 7represents a detail plan view of a part of the feeding-plate, showingthe oblong beveled-edge opening therein through which the needle plays.Fig. 8 represents a detail perspective view of the levers and tappetwhereby the various motions of the feedingplate are produced, the partsbeing shown slightly separated from each other. Fig. 9 represents adetail perspective view of the tappet. Fig. 9 represents a detail bottomplan View of the same and of the prongs (shown in dotted lines) of thelever above it. Fig. 10 represents a detail bottom view of the movableframe which carries the feeding-plate. Fig. 11 represents a detail viewof the movable frame and plates carried thereby, the latter being shownas detached 5 and Fig. l2 represents a detail view of the angular arm F,hereinafter described, and its connections.

In the said drawings, A designates the base of a sewingmaehine, which isadapted to be secured to a table, as usual,- and is cast with the frameof said machine.

B designates the driving-shaft, which is arranged transversely,journaled in bearings cast with or attached to said base, and providedwith a pulley, b,which is adapted to receive a belt, whereby it may bedriven in the usual manner. On the opposite end of said shaft is ahand-wheel, b, so that it may be operated by hand instead. This,however, is not necessary and is inserted chiefly for conven-` ience inillustrating the operation of the machine. Shaft B carries a cam, B',which operates the needle-lever C and the needle-bar e; also a secondcam, B2, which reciprocates the shuttle-bar D. There is no novelty inthese devices, and any other mechanism for operating the needle andshuttle may be substituted therefor. These cams are preferably protectedby a casing, d. Shaft B also carries a small cam, E, which operates todepress the outer end of an angular arm, F, the inner end of which issleeved on ashaft, G, arranged below shaft B and at right anglesthereto. Said arm F rocks freely on shaft G. It is restored to itsplace, after being depressed as stated, by a retracting-spring, f, itsupward motion, under the influence of said spring, being regulated by anadjusting-screw, g. Said spring and screw are of course attached to aiiXed part of the frame of the machine, and said screw serves toregulate the length of the stitches.

The hub of arm F, which turns on shaft G, is provided with radial studsf, and also with movable pieces or dogs F7 springs F2 being attached atone end to said studs, and at the other end to said pieces or dogs,respectively. The outer ends of said dogs are bent so as to overlap theperiphery of a wheel, G', fast on shaft G, and the springs F2 cause themto cling to said periphery. The hub above men` tioned is provided withperipheral notches, each of which has a radial side in the direction ofthe tension of springs F?, and a curved I IOO ally-feeding mechanismmay, however, be substituted lfor slowly rot-ating shaft G. This shaftcarries a grooved cam, G2, which receives in its groove adownwardly-extending stud, h, of a transverse lever, H, which is pivotedat its rear end to a fixed part of the frame. The movable part of saidlever is connected to a frame, I, which moves longitudinally of themachine on guides l'. This frame is provided with transverse guideways,which receive a transversely-moving plate, J, to which the feeding-plateK is attached. Thus the action of cam Gz will be to give longitudinalmotion to said feeding-plate and to the material thereon. The frequencyof such motions depends on the shape of the cam-groove in cam G. Asshown, it is adapted to cause two complete longitudinal journeys of thefabric during each rotation of shaft G. In order to vary thelongitudinal feedingto correspond to the varying lengths of differentbutton-holes, we make a longitudinal slot, h', in lever H and acorresponding slot, t', above it in an extension of frame l, and weemploy a movable fulcrurn consisting of a screw, I2, that has on itslower end a head which fits into slot h'. Said screw extends up throughslot t', and receives above the same a clamping-nut, which holds it atany point to which said screw may be shifted in said slots. By thusmoving the fulcrum backward or forward the throw of the lever is in?creased or diminished, thus increasing or lessening the longitudinalmotion of the fabric.

The shaft B carries a cam, B, which is provided with two circulargrooves, that are connected at opposite places, where the ends of theintervening partition are beveled off.

These receive a wrist-pin, Z, on the outer end of a lever, L. Saidwrist-pin travels from one of said grooves to the other and backagain,as determined by their shape and by the action of a pivotedbeveled tail, L', which is turned past the corners or edges ofthe'beveled partition. Any other form of groove might, however, besubstituted, if capable of giving the 'double oscillation desired, sothat said tailpiece L' would not necessarily be required. The office oflever L is to cause the feedingplatc and fabric to make the necessaryrapid motions back and forth between the stitches, so that the edges ofthe button-hole will be properly bound. This transverse movement isaccomplished through the medium of an arm, M, which is pivoted on thefulcrum of lever L. This arm or lever is received between the prongs ofa fork, m, on said lever, which stride it at such an interval as toallow a certain independent motion of either of said levers L and M,though generally they move together. The upper side of arm or lever M isprovided with afixed fork or yoke, m',which receives a lug, m2, on theunder side of trans'- versely-moving slide or plate J. Thus the rapidoscillations of lever L cause corresponding transverse movements of saidplate and the feeding-plate carried thereby.

When either end of the button hole is reached,l it becomes necessary toprovide for a longer transverse feed than usual, in order that thestitches may be of sufficient length to close said button-hole at thatend. To effect this, we employ a grooved cam, N, on shaft G, ahorizontally-acting lever, O, which is provided with a stud which entersthe groove in said cam, and a sliding tappet, l?, which is arrangedhorizontally on the machine and provided with a gudgeon or stud, .1),that enters a slot in the other end of lever O. This tappet is arrangedbetween levers L and M, and passes through guide-lugs in the former, soas to have no lateral motion therein. It is provided on one side withthe laterally-projecting flattened portion p', and on the other with asimilar portion, p2, arranged at a different part of the tappetlongitudinally. It is spanned by prongs QQ', extending downward from armor lever M. When the tappet is moved longitudinally into such a positionthat the part p' is opposite the prong Q, the lever M will be thrownfarther to the right by the action of lever L. When in the otherposition, the reverse action will follow. There is a third positionpossible, in which the tappet is in contact with both prongs, inasmuchas the proj ecting portions p and p' are prolonged toward each otheruntil they nearly overlap. When there is an interval between the tappetand IOO either prong Q or Q', the feeding on the side of that prongwillv be less than on the other side, because the motion of lever L inthat direetion cannot be transmitted to lever M until the said tappetcomes incontact with said prong. Hence, in the first position stated,the machine is ready to sew on the right side of the button-hole; whenin the second position, on the left side thereof; and when in the thirdposition, (having then full transverse feed both ways,) to sew acrossthe ends of the button-hole.

The operation of the machine is brieiiy as follows: While thelongitudinally-feeding devices above described advance the materialslowly,the transversely-acting lever L,through tappet l? and arm orlever M, keeps rapidly vibrating the feeding-plate, so as to make theneedle sew alternately in the exact edge of the button-hole, (on theside of thelatter then being bound,) and a little back of the same, forthe purpose of binding the said edge with a close succession of V-shapedstitches. end of the button-hole is reached, cam N, through thedescribed connection, shifts said tappet so that both its parts, p p2,are in contact with the prongs Q Q', respectively, and,

When the shaped.

as above stated, the needle then makes a long stitch, which is repeatedonce or more to close the end of the button-hole. The cam N then shiftstappet P again, so that it will cause the transverse feedingto be in theother direction than that rst adopted, for the purpose of binding theother side of the button -hole. When the other end of the button-hole isreached, the tappet is once more placed in contact with both prongs andthe end of the button-hole is closed.

In order to hold the fabric tightly and smoothly on the feeding-plate,and to insure evenness and accuracy in the sewing, we employ a clampconstructed as follows: A. stem, R, rises from the frame I. Ou this stemis a sleeve, S, having its upper end spiral or cam- ()n its lower end isa plate-spring, T, and a cam-shaped nut or collar, U, turning on saidstem, bears against the cam-shaped end of said sleeve, so as to Hattensaid spring on the fabric and hold the latter on the feeding-plate. Thisspring tends to force said sleeve upward when the action of said collaror nut allows it to do so. A downwardly-bent rigid arm, V, extends fromsaid sleeve toward the needle and constitutes a presser-foot, to which aguide-loop is attached. The needle works within said guide-loop. Byturning nut U in one direction both the spring T and presser-foot areclamped firmly against the fabric, holding it at two points. By turningsaid nut in the other direction they are released. Said nut or collar isheld by a stop-collar, c, clamped to said stem.

The edge of the opening Z of the feedingplate is beveled, as shown at z,and the guideloop aforesaid, which forms part of the presser-foot, fitsdown within theinner edge of this beveled part 'z and holds the fabricsecurely without the need of serrations or notches. By turning thesleeve of the yclamp on the stem thereof the presser-foot may be removedfrom the neighborhood of the needle.

Having thus fully described our invention, what we claim as new, anddesire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The combination of lever L, tappetP, moving longitudinally in guidesthereon, arm M, arranged above lever L and provided withdownwardly-extending prongs which straddle said tappet, the transverselymoving slide which carries the feeding-plate and is connected to saidarm, a shaft which vibrates said lever transversely, and devices wherebysaid tappet may be shifted longitudinally, so as to cause the machine tosew on one-side of the button-hole or the other, substantially asdescribed.

In testimony whereof We affix our signatures in presence of twowitnesses.

JAMES BOWLING. JOHN CONNOLLY.

Vitnesses:

MATTHEW AUGUsrUs SOUL, WILLIAM HENRY HAYES.

